Teutonia II Ring date — Gray-Blue Dial / Steel Bracelet

Most watches show the date by cutting a hole in the dial. The Teutonia II Ring Date cuts 31 of them, each barely larger than an index.

It is Mühle-Glashütte's answer to the date window. A disc color-matched to the dial turns beneath 31 oval openings arranged inside a printed 31-day ring; the disc's white marker shows through exactly one of them and moves on a step each day. No window frame, no extra hand, no lost symmetry.

This is the all-steel version: a 195 mm bracelet on a folding clasp, 173 grams complete, over a 41.0 mm case measuring only 10.7 mm high and 51.2 mm lug to lug. The gray-blue dial is ray-cut, the hands are bright nickel-plated and the polished indices are applied by hand, above volute-shaped lugs. The automatic SW 200-1, Version Mühle runs 41 hours and carries Mühle's patented, shock-resistant woodpecker neck regulation. Anti-reflective sapphire, exhibition caseback, 10 bar.

A conversation piece that behaves itself: no fragility, no fuss, all steel.

Perfect for: ring date watch buyers, steel bracelet sports-dress watches, mechanical watch gift shoppers.