Teutonia II Ring date — Gray-Blue Dial / Black Croc-Embossed Calf Leather

Thirty-one oval apertures arranged in a ring, and a single white marker moving one place each day. That is the entire date mechanism of the Teutonia II Ring Date.

Mühle-Glashütte built it without a window and without a pointer. Under the dial sits a disc finished in the same color as the dial itself, carrying one white index; it shows through whichever of the 31 cutouts corresponds to today, then advances. Watch writers have read it as a modern revival of the ring-scale date of early wristwatches, and it is the most distinctive thing this family has done in years.

Black croc-embossed calfskin on a steel folding clasp anchors the gray-blue ray-cut dial, whose color deepens and brightens as it turns. The steel case is 41.0 mm across and 10.7 mm high, among the slimmest in the line, with bright nickel-plated hands and hand-applied polished indices. SW 200-1, Version Mühle automatic with woodpecker neck fine regulation and stop-seconds, 41 hours, exhibition caseback, anti-reflective sapphire, 10 bar.

Formal enough for a suit, odd enough to be asked about.

Perfect for: collectors of unconventional date displays, black leather dress watches, 41 mm slim automatic watches.