Lunova Date — Black-Gray Dial / Anthracite Velour Suede

A fully polished steel case and a suede strap should not work together. On the Lunova Date they do, because the anthracite nap absorbs the light the case throws back.

Mühle-Glashütte named the Lunova line from the Latin lumen and novus for exactly that polish, unusual in a catalog otherwise built around sea rescue and instruments. The company has been in Glashütte since 1869, and assembles, finishes and regulates every watch there.

This one runs the SW 400-1 Version Mühle automatic, 41 hours, fitted with the patented woodpecker neck regulation that holds its adjustment under shock, plus stop-seconds for setting. The black-gray gradient dial carries applied Super-LumiNova indices, central seconds and the enlarged date aperture at 3 o'clock, about thirty percent larger than usual. 42.3 mm wide, 10.7 mm tall, 10 bar, on 22 mm anthracite velour suede with quick-release spring bars.

Quiet, flat and slightly unexpected. It suits people who find polished steel on shiny leather too obvious.

Perfect for: suede strap wearers, understated dress watch buyers, large date automatic seekers.