Panova Grey — Cognac Calf Leather

The Panova Grey holds 41 hours of running time and is set by pulling the crown until the seconds hand stops dead. Small things, done properly.

Mühle-Glashütte builds it around the SW 200-1 Version Mühle, a Swiss automatic that the company reworks in Glashütte with its own patented woodpecker neck fine regulator, a shock-resistant development of the traditional swan-neck. Mühle publishes the tolerance it regulates to, which is not the industry norm.

The Panova dial is ray-cut, finely brushed from the center and shifting between pale gray and charcoal as the light moves, with Super-LumiNova on the hands and hour markers and no date to break it up. Smooth cognac calf leather, 20 mm, on a steel pin buckle. The stainless steel case is 40.0 mm in diameter and 10.4 mm tall, 48.2 mm lug to lug, water resistant to 10 bar.

Straightforward and well-proportioned. It will not be the loudest watch in the room, which is rather the point.

Perfect for: mechanical watch newcomers, gray dial fans, cognac leather strap buyers.