Lunova Chronograph — Black-Gray Dial / Brown Croc-Embossed Calf Leather

Mühle-Glashütte builds most of its watches to be knocked about. The Lunova is the exception, and the name says so: Latin lumen and novus, light and new, for a case carrying an unusually high proportion of polished surface.

The Lunova Chronograph is the most complicated watch in that dress-leaning family. It runs Mühle's own MU 9413 caliber, built on a Swiss base and extensively reworked in Glashütte, with the traditional Glashütte three-quarter plate on show through the exhibition caseback and 62 hours of reserve. Stop-seconds lets you brake the balance and set it against a time signal.

Here the black-gray gradient dial, darker at the rim so the minute track stays clean, sits above a brown croc-embossed calf leather strap on quick-release spring bars. The steel case runs 42.3 mm wide and 14.2 mm tall, 52.1 mm lug to lug, sealed to 10 bar. Small seconds share the dial with the chronograph totalizers, and day and date read together at 3 o'clock. Applied indices and hands are coated with Super-LumiNova.

Warm brown leather takes the edge off a big chronograph. This is the configuration for a jacket, not a jersey.

Perfect for: German chronograph collectors, dress chronograph buyers, brown leather strap enthusiasts.