HAMBURG Automatic Edition Marine dark blue gold / suede 20 brown

Suede absorbs light where polished gold reflects it. That contrast is the entire idea behind this brown-suede HAMBURG Automatik Edition Marine from Sternglas.

Sternglas built the HAMBURG collection around its home city and around the look of nautical measuring instruments, which is why the dial carries larger Arabic numerals and a fine outer minute scale rather than the pared-back markers of the brand's other lines. Luminova handles the dark. On the Edition Marine, the screwed caseback is engraved with a windjammer under sail.

The case is 42 mm and gold-toned, the dial dark blue with a satin finish, and the strap is brown suede on 20 mm lugs. Suede gives a soft, matte nap that dulls the shine of the case rather than competing with it. The Miyota 8215 automatic inside runs 42 hours off a full wind, hacks its seconds hand, accepts hand-winding, and drives a date. Double-domed sapphire with double anti-reflective coating sits above; water resistance is 5 bar.

This is the most casual reading of the Edition Marine. It belongs with knitwear, corduroy and tweed rather than with a suit.

Perfect for: suede strap watches, casual automatic watches for autumn, blue and gold watch combinations.