29er — Apricot Dial / Black Pigskin

An apricot dial with a black leather strap is sharper than it sounds. The warm face is framed rather than echoed, and the contrast keeps the watch from reading sweet. At 36.6 mm the Mühle-Glashütte 29er keeps everything in proportion.

Mühle borrowed the name from sailing: the 29er dinghy is the boat young crews learn on before the Olympic 49er, and this watch was launched in 2006 with the parallel intention of being a first Glashütte automatic. The family firm's own line for what it does is that luxury follows function.

Black pigskin, 18 mm at the lugs, steel pin buckle. The case is stainless steel, 10.4 mm deep and 42.6 mm from lug tip to lug tip, with anti-reflective sapphire and a display back. The SW 200-1, Version Mühle runs 41 hours; Mühle names the Swiss base openly in the caliber designation, then rebuilds it, adding its own regulation and rotor and setting each watch to run between zero and eight seconds fast a day. Date at 3, 10 bar.

Distinctive from a distance, entirely sober up close.

Perfect for: apricot and peach dial watches, black leather strap pairings, distinctive small automatics.